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Palazzo della Ragione |
Rough stones for the indipendent city-state
Whoever visits Piazza Vecchia, the heart of old Bergamo, will most certainly be amazed by the contrast between the airy quality of the spaces and the rustic structure of the large building that closes off the square to the south. This is the Palazzo della Ragione – in other cities often called “Broletto” or “Palazzo del Comune” (Town Hall) – where “reasoning took place”, or rather, where the podestà and elder rulers of the city would govern public affairs and meet with the people. Built towards the middle of the twelfth century, it is almost nine hundred years old; in the square, only the civic tower or “Campanone” (Bell Tower) is older.
It was originally very different from how it appears today. It is believed that the main façade once faced south, that is, towards Piazza del Duomo. Only in the fifteenth century, with Venetian rule, did the north side become the main side while Piazza Vecchia was taking shape. It was during this time that the arches were opened to bring light into the portico below.
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Its current appearance dates back to the sixteenth century. In 1513 the building was seriously damaged by a fire that destroyed the roof and first floor interior. Entrusted with the building’s restoration, the architect Pietro Isabello modified the portico and put in new windows, turning the first floor into a single large room with a roof supported by seven wooden trusses (“capriate” in Italian, and from this the name “Salone delle Capriate). After the new Town Hall was built on the opposite side of the square, the building was no longer used for its original purpose. In the nineteenth century, it became the public library. While restoration work was carried out in the twenties of the last century, the library was transferred to the former Town Hall, an imposing white marble building, and the majestic room was reinstated. Since then it has been used only for prestigious events: international meetings, congresses and exhibitions. Currently the “Palazzo” is hosting a marvellous exhibition of art works from the Accademia Carrara. This art gallery is currently closed for restoration and a selection of its most beautiful works, by Pisanello, Mantegna, Raphael, Titian and others, can be seen in the beautiful “Sala delle Capriate”. The white marble lion that dominates the façade dates back to the last century. It was donated by Venice as a reminder of the ancient ties between the two cities. During Venetian rule a large marble lion, symbol of St. Mark and the Venetian Republic, was positioned here, but destroyed by the French who had arrived in Bergamo under Napoleon’s command. It is difficult to imagine how the façade facing Piazza Vecchia once appeared. The wall was plastered and there were signs and niches in marble or coloured stone to honour the Podestà and rectors who Venice sent to govern the city.
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